NEW ZEALAND - Tuesday 11 December 2012

Tuesday 11 December
Well the flight was long and uneventful, watched loads of films but only managed to doze for an hour or so. We'd lost a day when we landed at 7.30 a.m. after a 12 hour flight. Simply delighted to see Mia, Jade and adorable little Gabriel at the airport. He is a beautiful little boy and was thrilled to see us.



'Our beautiful grandson', Gabriel, Auckland, New Zealand

Had a coffee and a catch-up at the airport before driving into central Auckland to drop off our luggage and book into The Ibis Hotel on Queen's Street. It's a grey, chilly day - in fact quite a bit cooler than I thought it would be as it is, of course, summer here. Went for a couple of early beers before Mia and Jade headed out to South Auckland to drop Gabriel off at Jade's parents so we decided to have a couple of hours rest. Met them again at 4.00 p.m. and went down the road to meet up with Becky (an old school friend of Mia's) and Shina (Tom's ex-girlfriend who lived with us many years ago for 18 months). Delighted to see them both and catch-up.

Shina, Becky and Mia, Auckland, New Zealand

Had a great night with copious amounts of alcohol and great company. Craig, Becky's partner, joined us later in the evening, picked up a sandwich on the way home, ate it in bed and sleep. Perfect day.

Wednesday 12 December
Met Mia and Jade at 9.00 a.m. and went for an English breakfast on Queen's Street - was so looking forward to it but it wasn't really up to scratch. Jade drove us out to the suburbs then to look for a car to buy and eventually bought a Nissan for 1,800 dollars (roughly 850 pounds) hoping that Mia will be able to sell it on for us once we leave. We then went to Jade's family home to pick up Gabriel and met her Mum, brother Kyle and two sisters Crystal and Courtenay who all seemed to be nice and friendly. We stopped for coffee and beers before they headed back north to Whangerei and we went back to The Ibis. The weather has improved and it's a warm, sunny day so hope it lasts. We had a read and a rest for an hour or so before wandering down to the harbor and finding some food.

Auckland (pop. 1.5 million)  is New Zealand's largest city although it is not the capital, that honour goes to Wellington. It is one of the least densely populated cities in the world occupying twice the area of London. It is known as 'The City of Sails' and its Maori name is Aotearoa - Land of the Long White Cloud. Around 11% of the population claim Maori descent whilst 14%  are families of migrants from Tonga, Samoa, the Cook Islands and other South Pacific Islands who arrived during the 1960s and 70s. The downtown sprouts skyscrapers  and it is surrounded by the grassy humps of fifty or so extinct volcanoes, the skyline is also dominated by The Sky Tower, the tallest tower in the southern hemisphere. It is a modern city offering an eclectic mix of cultures and is the world's largest Polynesian city.

Auckland, New Zealand

We found a lovely restaurant/bar offering 50% off on a Wednesday evening so I had a delicious Thai curry and Dave had a steak, it was perfect and delicious. Wandered around the back streets, oohing and aahing at the shop windows and trendy galleries before heading home for a good night's sleep.

Thursday 13 December
Had a real hassle of a morning and not in particularly good spirits after being woken at 3.00 a.m. by a disco/Christmas party going on somewhere nearby. Anyway up and out by 9.00 a.m. to try and sort out some 3rd party fire and theft insurance for the car  - not having insurance is not illegal here but we're not happy with that. We tried a few places but they wouldn't do tourist insurance, eventually went to a backpackers' and got 3 months for 195 dollars which was more than we wanted to pay but it's done. We're both a bit stressed. Auckland's a nice city but we're not used to crowds, noise and hassle and we just wanted to get away. Eventually left late morning and got straight on the motorway heading south. We're heading for the Coromandel region hoping to spend some time on the beach, do some sightseeing and just chill.  We're totally shocked by how expensive everything is here, I needed some face and sun cream and it made us realize how much cheaper life is in America although we are spending from our dollar account which doesn't give us a true picture really. We got a bit disheartened on the way out of the city - it all looks so much like England and with gloomy-looking skies it all looked a bit grey and boring. The suburbs go on for miles but eventually we reached the coast road and it all began to look a bit more interesting and our spirits began to rise. One thing I vividly remember from our last visit was the amazing flora and this being summer there's colour and amazing trees everywhere. Lots of tropical palms and ferns plus a wonderful huge tree with startling red flowers, it's quite magnificent and I think its called the 'Christmas Bush'.

The Coromandel Peninsula is famed for its white sandy beaches, turquoise seas and dramatic rainforests. It was discovered by two of the world's great navigators, Polynesian explorer Kupe and Captain James Cook. Kupe was reputed to have discovered it in 950 AD and Captain Cook sailed into Mercury Bay on 3 November 1769. We had a wonderful drive in glorious sunshine along the shore, up, down and around extinct volcanoes and through picturesque rainforests. Stopped at Coromandel town and thought about staying but carried on over further mountains until we saw the talcum powder white sands and azure blue seas of the east coast of The Coromandel - stunningly beautiful. Carried on to Whitianga (pop. 4,100) and pulled into Albert's No 6, a pretty blue-painted motel about 100 yards from the beach and in the middle of the little town.



Albert's No. 6, Whitianga

Dave with our NZ car, Albert's No. 6, Whitianga

Whitianga is short for Whitianga-O-Kupe, meaning Kupe's crossing place, after the explorer and its a little one-street seaside town and ferry harbor. It's a lovely light room but, like everything else here, we're finding it quite expensive but at 95 dollars a night about the cheapest we could find. It's really nice though and we booked it for two nights. I went for a walk along the beach which is glorious, very natural with parts sectioned off to protect nesting birds. It also has a ferry wharf and a vibrant little harbour.

Whitianga

Visited one of the few pubs in town which was a bit of a soulless sports bar and de-stressed by spending a fortune on beer and shots - the last ones we'll be drinking in this country - the shots I mean. Beer is more than double the price of America but probably not unlike the prices at home. As we are travelling on the dollar though it's hard not to compare. Eventually left after 'words' with a bunch of locals who invited us to join them at their table - we've met many 'redneck Americans' but nothing compares to this moronic lot. Anyway we had a good night, picked up the best fish and chips (red snapper) we've ever had and home to bed.

Friday 14 December
Good night's sleep and woke to cloudy skies again - hopefully, the sun will come out later. Had a lazy morning reading and writing the blog before going for a walk around the town and along the beach. Later we walked to the harbour - the colours of the sea, the sand, the sky and the rocks are wonderful in their combination. Sat on the beach for a while, the sun's very hot but there's a strong breeze blowing - a number of people are swimming although the beach is very quiet - a little too cold for me I think. Later Dave picked up a 'roast of the day' - a roast dinner takeaway which is very popular in NZ - and I had the delicious red snapper again. Quiet night reading. Lovely to have the light nights again, dark about 9.00 p.m.

Saturday 15 December
Decided to leave about 9.00 a.m.  as we're worried about accommodation being booked up - it's a weekend plus the height of the holiday season and it's all booked in Whitianga otherwise we might have stayed another night. Drove around the peninsula to Hahei Beach (pop. 300), a picture-perfect white sandy beach flanked by rocky headlands and the ever-present bright blue/turquoise water of the Pacific. We booked into a cute little wooden cabin in a beautiful, natural holiday park with a perfect beachside location - it's known as 'Paradise by the Water' and I can see why. The cabin's really nice but at 130 dollars a night, not cheap but as there's nowhere to spend any money, it's affordable. Got some supplies in from the only little shop in town, including real bacon, and looked forward to spending a couple of quiet, peaceful days.

We had a fabulous day, we were on the beach by 11.00 a.m. and stunned by the beauty of the place - we had no idea NZ had such beautiful beaches. Had a paddle but not quite brave enough for a swim yet, we're just delighted to be here though.

Hahei Beach, Hahei, The Coromandel Peninsula

Hahei Beach, Hahei, The Coromandel Peninsula

'Our little cabin', Hahei Holiday Park, Hahei, The Coromandel Peninsula

'Much anticipated 'real' bacon', Hahei Beach, Hahei, The Coromandel Peninsula

Mid-afternoon we drove the few miles to Hot Water Beach, one of NZ's most fascinating and natural wonders. Here, for two hours either side of high tide, you can dig your own spa pool as water from hot springs seeps through the sands. We took a spade (provided by the holiday park) and were fascinated to see hundreds of people on the beach digging and sitting in holes with steam rising all around them. The water in places is simply boiling and it's impossible to stand on the sands with bare feet. Dug a hole, of course, and had a walk along the beach which is popular with surfers because of its renowned waves.

Hot Water Beach, Coromandel Peninsula

Hot Water Beach, Coromandel Peninsula

Had a great time before heading back for a  final hour on the beach with a refreshing beer. Cooked some steaks, made a salad and had a nice, quiet night - perfect day.

Sunday 16 December
Happy birthday Gabriel, 3 today xx
Awoke to a sparkling blue day and looking forward to another one out of doors. Left mid-morning to walk to Cathedral Cove, one of New Zealand's must-see attractions and one of the most beautiful beaches on the peninsula with remarkable rock formations, pure white sands and crystal clear water. A huge arched cavern joins two small coves and you can only get there on foot or by boat. From Hahei Beach we took a pathway up and over the cliffs, pretty strenuous at times but the coastal scenery along the way was spectacular.

'View of Hahei Beach', Coromandel Peninsual

'The walk to Cathedral Cove', Coromandel Peninsula

It's about a 3-mile round trip, the weather was boiling and the sun was beginning to scorch so we just sat on the beach and relaxed on arrival before doing the return trip.

Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsula



Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsual

Cathedral Cove, Coromandel Peninsula

Came back and talked to Mia and Gabriel before having an hour on the beach at Hahei, had a paddle but the water was a bit too cold for us to swim. We walked up to the little village to get some fish and chips from a little takeaway which is only open for an hour a day but they were rubbish. Watched a bit of TV, read our books and bed - 2 perfect days.

Monday 17 December
Well, sadly we woke to rain, grey skies and very low cloud, the forecast doesn't look too good either for the next few days. On the bright side, we've had four glorious days and can't think of anywhere more beautiful we could have been. We decided that if it stays like this then we'll get to Mia's a few days earlier. The coast here is stunning but without the weather, there's nothing. Had a nice drive through little beach towns and ended up in the Bay of Plenty area stopping for the night at Papamoa Beach (pop. 20,100). The Bay of Plenty occupies the area between the Coromandel Peninsula and the East Cape and is backed by rich farmland famed for its kiwifruit orchards. We booked a little cabin in a holiday park alongside the beach, had a long walk but with grey, heavy skies and seas, it wasn't very inspiring.

Papamoa Beach, Bay of Plenty

Papamoa Beach, Bay of Plenty

Papamoa itself, is a bit soulless with a big mall (the first we've seen here) and a few straggly shops off the beach - like most places I've visited in this country, beach communities just don't look as if they should be anywhere near the sea - where are the bucket and spade shops, the surf shops, the ice-cream parlours etc? - in fact it looks a bit like Southmead. We decided to do a bit of a pub crawl but on a Monday night, probably not the best for atmosphere although this is the week before Christmas but you would never know it - what happened to office Christmas parties and getting together with friends! Well we tried 4 bars and had a good drink but other than the last bar where we had a good chat to the young owner and his barmaid, we saw hardly a soul. Some takeout food and home to bed.

Tuesday 18 December
Not a very good night's sleep and spirits not lifted by further grey skies. We decided to set of north towards Mia a day or so early. Had a beautiful drive through rainforest and gorges and around many extinct volcanoes - all very lovely. Passed through Auckland and over the magnificent Auckland Harbour Bridge - the City of Sails is a truly beautiful sight. Drove about 30 miles out of Auckland to Orewa Beach (pop. 7,326) and pulled into the Orewa Motor Lodge Motel. Again very expensive for us at 135 dollars a night but we had a beautiful little wooden chalet across the road from the beach, our nicest accommodation yet.

Orewa Motor Lodge Motel, Orewa

Strangely, we've been travelling the Pacific Coast Highway as we had for our last three weeks in America. Went for a walk around the little town before having a long walk along the beach, someone had proposed to 'Grace' in the sand - how romantic is that - I hope she said yes.

Orewa Beach, Orewa



'Grace, will you marry me?', Orewa Beach, Orewa

Went out early evening for a few beers, nice but still hard to believe it's only a week before Christmas - no tinsel or festive music, not even many people. Picked up a delicious take-away roast dinner and home.

Wednesday 19 December
Left Orewa Beach and had a nice drive up the coast stopping off at a few places including Whatatama where we sat and watched the surfers before moving on to Marsden Point where we visited the New Zealand Oil Refinery Visitor's Centre which was fascinating.

Whatatama

Carried on to Whangerei (pop. 80,500) , North Island's second city and found Mia's house. Jade was there and was just leaving to pick up Mia so we bundled into the car and went with her. It was a delight to see Gabriel again and really impressed with their lovely house as well as the large tropical garden and huge blow-up swimming pool.

Mia's house at Nixon Street, Whangerei

Gabriel in the garden, Whangerei

Mia and myself in the pool, Whangerei

Went to the Dickens Pub in town for a couple of beers before heading back for dinner. Boiling hot, humid day and we sat in the garden chatting and just being happy to be altogether again. Read Gabriel a bedtime story and chatted for a while before bed. Can't bear already to think about leaving Mia when we go home.

Thursday 20 December
Had a bit of a disturbed night and up about 8.00 a.m. with a full-on Gabriel - we're not used to children but I guess we'll get used to it pretty quickly. The day is grey and humid but warm, it would be nice to see the sun but not sure it's going to appear much before Christmas - there has been a hurricane in Samoa and there is an anti-cyclone hanging over the North Island. Did some work - organizing gifts from Asda for Tom and Isabelle, then took Gabriel for a walk in his pushchair. Dave and I then took him to McDonald's for some McNuggets. Later went to The Warehouse (a large buy-anything-you-want store) before joining Mia in the Kensington Tavern (her local across the road) for a pint. Mia cooked pizzas for dinner which were delicious, watched a bit of TV and bed.

Friday 21 December
Had a bit of a better sleep and up about 8.30 a.m. It's Mia's last day at work which she is thrilled about. Dave and I went to The Warehouse to get a bike for Gabriel and some other bits and pieces and then picked up a petrol lawn mower for Mia and Jade for their lovely garden - at the moment they have a 'lawn man' who comes in so it will be nice for them to be able to do it themselves. Went into town later for a wander around the Town Basin. Whangerei is the main town of the Northland area of the country which is sub-tropical and seperates the Pacific Ocean from the Tasman Sea. The two oceans swirl together off Cape Reinga, New Zealand's most northerly road-accessible point which is often approached via the sands of Ninety Mile Beach. The Town Basin, in the central of town, is mainly pedestrianized and is an attractive hub of retail outlets and restaurants beside an art trail along the riverside which is home to sleek yachts and houseboats.

The Town Basin, Whangerei

Dave, Mia and myself, The Town Basin, Whangerei

Mia finished work at 2.00 p.m. and we sat in the garden playing with Gabriel. Dave and Mia went for a beer and on their return an hour later we played in the pool and had a barbecue. Lovely day. Had a quiet night watching TV and chatting.

Saturday 22 December
Up about 8.30 a.m. Went shopping to Countdown, the local supermarket across the road before taking Gabriel into town to see Father Christmas followed by a beer at the Dickens Pub.

Gabriel and Father Christmas, Whangerei

The afternoon turned out nice and sunny so I took Gabriel for a walk in his pushchair while Mia wrapped all her presents. Sat in the garden for a couple of hours before getting a roast dinner from the Roast Shop. Watched 'Madagascar', had a few games of cards, lots of laughs and bed.

Sunday 23 December
Miserable day, grey skies and lots of rain which lasted all day - no Christmas barbie for us I think. Had a lazy morning before going bowling which started off fun but ended in a mess. Gabriel had a massive tantrum and we were unable to do anything with him. Also Jade, who had never played before, squashed her fingers between two bowling balls, and was unable to play in the end. We just had to leave, Gabriel was in such a state. Mia and Dave went for a beer and then we watched 'Polar Express' and 'A Christmas Carol' - it's beginning to feel like Christmas at last. All of us were tired so bed about 11.00 p.m.

Monday 24 December
Good sleep but woke up to more rain. Sara (an old school friend of Mia's who is a nurse in Wellington) is driving up today and it will take her about 12 hours at least. Spoke to my sister Lyndsey and James and Tom, the weather at home is appalling (as it has been for most of summer as well) - floods, strikes - my sister described it as apocalyptic - miss them all. Did some wrapping and had a drink with Mia at the Kensington Arms late afternoon. A little later Dave turned up with Sara - so lovely to see her. When we returned Jade's parents turned up with her brother Cayle and her two sisters, Chrystal and Courtenay. It was a bit of a madhouse but we had a nice evening, put the presents under the tree and waited for Christmas Day.

The lull before the storm', Whangerei 

'Waiting for Christmas', Whangerei

Tuesday 25 December
Happy Christmas everyone xx
Well we all got up and sorted ourselves out before handing out presents and watching Gabriel open his. He's such a good boy and took his time playing with his toys - he does seem to have everything. We bought him his first bike though so that was nice. Sadly not a good enough day for the garden which was such a shame as Mia had made a real effort with the pool and getting the garden mowed and pruned.

'Gabriel', Christmas Day, Whangerei

'Dave, Mia and myself', Whangerei

Sara and Chrystal, Christmas Day, Whangerei

 All going well until Jade's Mum and family decided to leave early - they had intended staying the night as they live a couple of hours' away in Auckland. She is a heavy smoker and Mia said she resented having to smoke outside - very rude and Jade was really upset although it is quite a difficult relationship I think. It seemed very quiet after they'd all left so we watched TV, had some drinks and bed. Nice day.

Wednesday 26 December
Another miserable day, the weather has certainly been a disappointment. All getting cabin fever I think so Dave and Sara walked into town mid-morning and I met them in The Dickens Pub about 1.30 p.m. I didn't want to do any shopping but nice to be out. Walked back through a downpour only to find Mia and Jade not talking and an atmosphere you could cut a knife with. Mia went off to the pub and I joined her 20 minutes later for a chat - not all rosy in the garden I think! Anyway it all seemed to patch itself up and we had a nice evening with some good food and a film. Late night with cards and music.

Thursday 27 December
Dave went out for a walk early in the morning and the rest of us had an early start to the day. We all went out in the afternoon for a lovely 40 minute drive along the coast to Ocean Beach. It was still cloudy with grey skies but we had a good few hours paddling, making sandcastles with Gabriel, clambering over the rocks and climbing the sand dunes which made me feel as if we were back in the Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado although, of course, it was mini up to that.

Ocean Beach, North Island

Gabriel and Gramps, Ocean beach



'Sara and her masterpiece', Ocean Beach



'Not quite warm enough yet', Mia at Ocean Beach

'Digging sandcastles', Gabriel at Ocean Beach

Sara at Ocean Beach

 Anyway we all had a great afternoon and stopped for a beer at a lovely little waterfront bar on the way home.

Dave, Jade, Sara, Mia and Gabriel, nr. Ocean Beach

Later in the day, Dave, Sara and I went to the cinema to see the 'The Hobbit'. I enjoyed the film but it didn't have the 'wow' factor that I felt for 'Lord of the Rings' although I'll definitely look forward to the next one this time next year. Nice day.

Friday 28 December
Sara went off to Auckland this morning to meet up with a friend, Dave and I went for a shop then we had an afternoon in the pool. The sun was shining and Mia and I had a volleyball tournament - it was a real laugh! Mia and Jade went out late afternoon to have a game of bowling while we stayed home with Gabriel. Dave went to get him a happy meal from McDonald's and we had a lot of fun. Watched a cute, funny, alien-inspired film called 'Paul' and then bed.

Saturday 29 December
Up early to a beautiful, sunny morning, got all our stuff packed and set off to Ahipara up in the north of the island and at the beginning of the famed 90 Mile Beach for a weeks' camping. Had a lovely drive through pretty New Zealand countryside before arriving early afternoon and stopping for lunch at a little local café. After lunch we pulled into the holiday park which was pretty and small and just a few minutes walk to the beach. Got our pitch sorted and put up the tents - Dave and I are not terribly thrilled by the thought of proper camping but as long as we sleep OK and the weather's OK, I think we'll be fine. Had a nice few hours on the beach which was huge. 90 Mile Beach (which is actually 64 miles) runs straight along the western side of the peninsula, the most northern point of which is Cape Reinga where the spirits of the Maori dead are supposed to depart this earth. The beach is a paradise for dune buggies and sand karting and modern tour buses belt along at the edge of the surf to reach the tip - it is officially part of the state highway. Met up with Sara and her friend Kate, drinks, food, music, laughter until it all went horribly wrong.

Sara, Ahipara Holiday Park, Ahipara

A full-on disco started playing about 11.00 p.m. just as we were beginning to settle down for the night, it was simply shocking - if I had wanted to sleep next to a nightclub I wouldn't have booked into a campsite. We all started getting a bit uptight, Mia and I got up in the early hours as it was impossible to sleep - people shouting, music blaring, bass thumping, dogs barking - absolutely appalling. To top it all off it then started pouring with rain which did actually shut them all up - can't believe there wasn't a riot though, don't other people mind!

Sunday 30 December
Torrential rain for the rest of the night and we awoke tired to rain and cloud and a thoroughly miserable day. I complained about the noise, but nobody seemed to be too bothered about what I had to say, not looking forward to tonight. If it was New Year's Eve, it would be thoroughly acceptable and we would all be partying with them - we'll see. We were all a bit fed up so decided to go into the nearest town of Kaitaia, have some food and relax a bit - another disaster. A real red-neck town which looks as if its on its last legs and certainly has no redeeming features - to say it was full of morons would be doing morons a disservice. Anyway had some food and a few beers before going back, the rain had dried up  so we had a walk on the beach but we were all a bit on edge knowing we were going to have another bad night. Well the music started and the disco thumped. I complained, summoned the Manager and ended up having a full-on row in the early hours of the morning. So disgusted and can't believe that the noise can be acceptable on a family campsite. I demanded a full refund and said we would be leaving first thing in the morning. Of course I then went back to bed really upset as I felt I had ruined Mia and Jade's first holiday but they were adamant they didn't want to stay under those circumstances so I guess we'll leave. The music finally stopped about 3.00 p.m. and we tried to sleep. Really rubbish here.

Monday 31 December
Thankfully, it's a nice morning so up early, packed up and left. The Manager wasn't happy about giving us a full refund but I said I refused to leave until he did so eventually he capitulated. We all feel bad about leaving Sara there but she has 4 friends with her so she'll be fine. We decided to have a day on the beach in Paihia in the glorious Bay of Islands region of the country. The Bay of Islands, 240 km. north of Auckland, has beautiful coastal scenery, scattered islands and clear blue waters. It was also the centre of European settlement in New Zealand and is where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed, the founding document of the modern New Zealand, making it a focal point for Maori culture.

We got there about 11.00 a.m., had breakfast and then had a perfect day on the beach. The sun blazed down, we swam in the sea, played with Gabriel, met up with Shina (her parents live in Paihia) and got back to enjoying ourselves. Nice to be somewhere with a bit of a 'holiday' feel to it as well - beautiful scenery and a perfect little tourist town.

Paihia

Paihia

'Having a paddle', Dave, Mia and Gabriel,  Paihia

'Building sandcastles', Gabriel, Paihia

Dave and I had a walk around followed by a beer on the waterfront. A final swim and dry off, said our goodbyes and best wishes to Shina for a 'Happy New Year' and we headed home about 5.00 p.m.

Paihia

'Happy New Year Shina', Paihia

We arrived home an hour later and had a relaxed night. We were all exhausted after the two nights with little sleep and we barely made midnight. Not sorry to not be partying though. Happy New Year all x

Tuesday 1 January 2013
Beautiful day and we were all up early to go back to Paihia with the tent for a few days' camping but Jade was seriously sunburnt, Dave is a little sunburnt and we are still all really tired so had a lazy day instead. Mia, Gabriel and I spent all afternoon in the garden and pool - nice. Dave and I went for a drink late afternoon before having a delicious barbecue - all a bit too late for Gabriel though and he had a terrific tantrum - think we all need a bit of space!

Wednesday 2 January
I think there's a row going on between Mia and Jade, Gabriel's misbehaving and the atmosphere is bad. Yet again we packed the car up to go camping but we're all a bit stressed so Dave and I went to Whangerei Falls about 5 miles from the centre of town and the most photographed waterfall in new Zealand. We walked along the bushland trail and into the Kauri Park which weaves its way through native bush and 500 year old Kauri trees - all very impressive.

Whangerei Falls, Whangerei

Whangerei Falls, Whangerei

After a couple of hours we went back to see if they wanted to go out but Mia was at the bar playing poker on the pokie machines which doesn't really help anything. We went back out again and drove along the Tututaka coast, home to some of the world's best diving locations. The beaches are beautiful and solitary, nothing commercial about this coast at all. Eventually arrived back at the Town Basin, had a walk around the harbour before meeting up with Mia, Jade and Gabriel at The Dickens Pub for a pint - peace seems to be restored. Had a takeaway roast of the day, watched the very excellent 'Shawshank Redemption' and bed.

Thursday 3 January
Woke to a grey, rainy day so we abandoned camping again. The weather this far north is quite unpredictable, not sure what we can do all day as it looks as if its carrying on. Decided to get some DVD's in so watched 'Finding Nemo' and 'Gnomeo and Juliet' before Mia made pizza for supper. When Gabriel had gone to bed we watched a brilliant New Zealand cult film called 'Once We're Warriors' about life amongst the Maori population in south Auckland. Truly frightening in its depiction of the poverty and culture. Hopefully tomorrow will be nice and we can go back to our holiday.

Friday 4 January
Up and off in the morning to Waitangi Holiday Park, only a 15 minute walk from Paihia and opposite a lovely little beach. Put the tents up and then went to the beach. The water's lovely and we met up with Shina, Philly (Shina's Mum) and William (Shina's little brother).

Waitangi

'Philly and Shina', Waitangi

'Views to Paihia', Waitangi

Waitangi Holiday Park, Waitangi

'Maori totem poles' Waitangi

Decided to pick up some fish and chips on the way home from the beach but Dave and I had a row - he is being really pissy about staying in a tent, so I walked into Paihia on my own for a couple of hours and ate some fish and chips on the beach - such a beautiful evening. Played beach tennis with Mia when I got back - such fun to be with her, and then off to bed.

Saturday 5 January
Beautiful morning and its going to be hot again. I think we're all feeling a little less stressed today as well. Went out mid-morning to Paihia, had some breakfast and then had a good few hours on the beach. Plenty of beach tennis and sandcastle building before Dave and Mia went off for an hour to have a beer together. We were all getting a bit sunburnt so mid-afternoon we got the ferry over to Russell, one time capital and now a tiny tourist island.

In the 1830's  Kororareka, as it was known then, was a swashbuckling town full of whalers and sealers with a reputation as the 'Hellhole of the Pacific'. Savage and drunken behaviour served as an open invitation to missionaries who gradually won over a sizeable congregation and left behind Russell's two oldest buildings, the church and a printing works that produced religious tracts. It only takes 10 minutes on the ferry from Paihia and its a pleasant way to spend a couple of hours wandering the little streets and the quaint waterfront.

'Cap'n Dave and his little mate on the way to Russell'

Russell

Mia, Jade and Gabriel, Russell

 Had a beer before getting the ferry back.  Burgers and beers in Paihia before all going back to the campsite happy, tired and sunburnt. Beach tennis and cards before our last ever night in a tent - yippee!

Sunday 6 January
Got up and sadly packed up. Mia, Jade and Gabriel heading home now. It's the end of the holidays for them whilst we're staying on for a couple more nights in a little cabin/room. Dave and I went half-way home with them as we wanted to stop at Kawakawa which is home to a vintage railway which runs through the main street of the town and around a 5km. loop. It has a steam engine called Gabriel so it was a definite must-do. Kawakawa itself is a nice little arty one-street town made famous for being the home of the celebrated Hundertwasser toilets, a beautiful creation of coloured glass, crazy tiling and mosaic. These works of art were created by the reclusive Austrian painter, architect, ecologist and philosopher Friedrich Hundertwasser who made Kawakawa his home until his death in 2000.

Kawakawa

'Hundertwasser Toilets', Kawakawa

'Hundertwasser Toilets', Kawakawa

'Hundertwasser Toilets', Kawakawa



Jade, Gabriel and Gabriel the steam engine, Kawakawa

After a walk, Mia, Jade and I had a couple of beers in the atmospheric Star Hotel whilst Dave took Gabriel on the train which he loved - well both of them loved it! Said our goodbyes and Dave and I went back to Paihia for a thoroughly chilled, relaxed rest of the day - we never realized how tired we were after spending 16 days with a 3 year old! I went for a walk on the beach before fish and chips, a read, no alcohol and bed.

Monday 7 January
Had a good night's sleep and awoke to grey skies which cleared to a beautiful blue-skied , windy but hot day. I think we both feel a little lost actually and we're not quite sure what to do with our day. Anyway we went out for a drive after a lazy morning and then went to the beach for a few swims - just lovely. We walked into Paihia early evening for a beer, then walked through the town and decided to eat at a little restaurant opposite the beach. Lovely food - Thai chicken curry for me and steak and shrimp for Dave, all washed down with a few glasses of vino. Unfortunately, as we didn't plan to eat 'properly' we didn't have much money on us so had to pay by card which, shockingly, was declined. Thankfully, they were fine about it, we paid what we could and they said we could pay the rest in the morning. We assumed it was because it was an American card which we hadn't yet used in New Zealand but when we walked down the road to the bank it worked. Went back to pay, had a nice walk home, a cuppa, a read and sleep.

Tuesday 8 January
Up to a nice morning and walked the 15 minutes into Paihia to get some postcards. Lazy day, had a swim and a sunbathe in the afternoon. The weather's lovely - about 28 degrees and sunny. We went out early evening for a few drinks at a beachfront bar in Paihia and started chatting to a young Swiss couple. Picked up fish and chips on the way home. Read and bed.

Wednesday 9 January
Dave had a bit of a disturbed night's sleep and I think he'll be glad to move on  - I've moved on so often in the last 7 months that I'm quite happy to stay still plus Paihia is lovely, the weather is good and the room is cheap. Anyway left about 10.00 a.m. and drove the 60 miles to Whangerei before heading for the little coastal towns of Ruakaka and Waipu. Lovely day again and the weather seems to be quite settled now. Stopped at the little town of Waipu for a coffee and a walk on the beach, it played host to the New Year's Eve Highland Games and was busy with holidaymakers. We then carried on to Ruakaka where we booked a night at the Ruakaka Motel right on the beach. The beach is glorious - long, wide and sandy with the awesome Pacific Ocean pounding the shores.

Ruakaka Beach

Had a few swims in the sea, jumping the waves, sunbathed and read before a beer at the local café which, typically for rural new Zealand, closes at 6.00 p.m. during peak holiday times! Probably one of the things which makes New Zealand unique in the 21st century is its unsophistication. Personally I have no wish to live here and I do find it frustrating that you have to search far and wide for a bit of 'life', but it is undeniably beautiful and, I guess, its simplicity is what makes it so attractive to people. Cooked some nice food, it's a lovely place to stay and it would have been nice to have another day but back to Whangerei tomorrow.

Thursday 10 January
Woke to a grey, warm day. I would have liked to have spent the morning on the beach but Dave not keen so we headed off, got some food at a local shop and had a picnic breakfast further up the beach. Had a long walk before having a drive around Marsden Point and One Tree Hill, stopping at the harbour for a while, before arriving back at Mia's house mid-afternoon. Cleaned the pool and did some washing before picking Mia up from work. Went to the Town Basin for a cool beer in the glorious hot sunshine and then back for a nice dinner before TV and bed.

Friday 11 January
Dave's foot is bad this morning, think he may have a mild gout attack. I wandered into town to have a look at birthday presents for Mia, came back and had a quiet drink with Mia and Jade at The Kensington Arms whilst Dave stayed with Gabriel. Becky (an old schoolfriend of Mia's) arrived early evening so drinks, roast of the day and bed.

Saturday 12 January
Up and out about 10.30 for a day at Ruakaka Beach with Mia, Jade, Gabriel and Becky. We all swam, lazed and played until it became far too hot to sit on the beach without shade so mid-afternoon we had a beer at The Ruakaka Tavern before picking up some barbecue stuff at a local supermarket and heading back to Whangerei.

Gabriel on Ruakaka Beach, Ruakaka

Ruakaka Beach, Ruakaka

'Mia, Jade and Gabriel', Ruakaka Beach, Ruakaka

Unfortunately it started to rain, in fact it started to pour, so we ate under the carport. We also found a little fledgling that had fallen out of its nest, we made it comfortable in a little box with some cotton wool but it had an injured wing and died a few hours later.

Gabriel, Dave, Becky, Mia and Jade eating barbecue, Whangerei

Had a few beers in the garden before watching an excellent film, 'The Changeling', with Angelina Jolie and bed. Don't want to go home and don't want to leave Mia.

Sunday 13 January
Felt sad waking up, can't believe we're leaving in a couple of days. Said a sad goodbye to Becky and Shina who had popped in for a cup of tea on the way back from Paihia to Auckland. Dave's gout is bad so he had a quiet day but we're all feeling a bit subdued. Had a nice afternoon in the pool and garden, the weather is very hot. Mia cooked pizza for supper and we watched Tom Burton's 'Alice in Wonderland'. Only 2 more days to go.

Monday 14 January
Happy Birthday darling Mia, my baby girl xx
Dave took Mia to work reluctantly as she really didn't want to go but she is going to have Tuesday and Wednesday off to come to Auckland with us. We went out to buy her a bodyboard to go with the huge 'London' picture we had also bought her for her birthday plus a 'How to Grown Your Own Vegetables' book. Started to pack when we got home - sob, sob! Sat in the garden for a while and then we all went to pick Mia up from work. Went to the Town Basin for a few drinks and it was lovely sitting out in the hot sunshine by the harbour.


Mia, Town Basin, Whangerei

'Happy Birthday darling', Whangerei

Mia, Jade and I went to The Kensington Arms for a couple when we got back but it was closed which was a real shame. Anyway we bought some beers and had a nice couple of hours in the garden playing beach tennis and laughing before takeaway, some AbFab DVD's and bed. Dreading tomorrow.

Tuesday 15 January
Well, here it is, time to say goodbye. Left mid-morning on a grey, rainy day so it matched our moods a bit. Stopped off halfway for some lunch and to stretch our legs before driving through Auckland to take Gabriel to Jade's parents.

'Lunch with Gabriel'

So hard to say goodbye but just want it all to be over now. Booked into the Airport Gateway Hotel for the night, it has a shuttle which will take us to the airport tomorrow. We all had a bit of a rest then we met Mia and Jade in the bar. Totally soulless and not much around the neighbourhood but decided to try the Holiday Inn across the road which was much better. Had a fun night with plenty to drink, some tapas and lots of laughter. Bed about 11.00 p.m. knowing that tomorrow will be here all too soon.

Wednesday 16 January
Thankfully slept well and felt OK when I got up. We all had breakfast together and then Mia and Jade left. So wish she didn't live here, I'll miss her so much when I get home. It was a bit of a subdued day for us, we're not flying until just before midnight and we were going to have a late check-out at 3.00 p.m. but decided to book another day and leave about 7.30 p.m. instead. We both just read all day, went for a little walk to get some nibbles and that was about it. Got the shuttle to the airport, had a beer and a burger before taking off on time. Goodbye New Zealand, thanks for having us, we'll definitely be back.