UTAH - KANAB, BRYCE CANYON, ZION CANYON - Tuesday 30 August 2012

Tuesday 30 August
Another sparkling, beautiful, blue sky and would rather not be leaving but that's a bit of a 'cop-out', we're not here for 'the easy life'. Set off mid-morning, said goodbye to 'Little Chip', the squirrel, did a shop and headed down Highway 89 into Utah (known as The Beehive State').

Its amazing when you come out of these little towns, you're in the wilderness again and there is nothing then for another 70/80 miles except more exceptional scenery, lots of red sandstone, a couple of little 'hamlets' (although I don't know if that's a word here), dry riverbeds and scorching weather. Reached Kanab (pop. 4,200, elev. 4,925') where we wanted to stay for a couple of nights. We are less than 500 miles from Las Vegas now with 10 days to go and there's not a lot except national parks in between. Anyway I think we were thinking it might be a bit of a dump as the last few towns have been but first impressions were good - just another one street town but its in a pretty setting, has a 'Little Hollywood' due to the many films that have been made in the surrounding area and felt nice. Pulled into the Kanab RV Coral and booked for a couple of days.

Kanab RV Coral, Kanab, Utah

Utah is reputed to have 'the most beautiful and most pristine landscapes in North America', from brilliantly coloured canyons, across endless desert plains to thickly-wooded and snow-capped mountains. Again its very much a state for 'the active' and activities such as hiking, mountain biking, whitewater rafting or skiing abound. Southern Utah (where we are) has more national parks than anywhere else in the United States and it has been suggested that the entire area should become one vast national park. There are also huge tracts of empty desert where ancestral puebloan ruins lie still hidden and mostly unexplored. Northern Utah is dominated by Salt Lake City (which we visited last year) and is where Utah's earliest white settlers - the Mormons - arrived in 1847 and started massive irrigation projects which made life possible there. Increased tourism has led to a relaxation of Utah's notorious drinking laws and most towns have at least one restaurant licensed to sell alcohol to diners and maybe even to sell it in a bar or lounge (yes, this is for real!). Southern Utah is a combination of the stunning (geologically) and the mundane (Mormon towns).


Very hot afternoon so went for a swim. Its a very pretty little site with a small pool and lovely comfy sunloungers and pretty shrubs and flowers. Sat in the sun until 'the monsoon' started - no rain but big grey clouds and a very heavy sky. Got ready to go out, rang our friends in California who we are longing to see again and were hoping we would in Vegas, but it appears it is not to be. We've added an hour on for Utah time so went out about 6.00 p.m. to Calvin T's, the only bar in town except its not really a bar but a big restaurant with a little space for a bar. It's actually quite a nice place with a 'Wild West' backdrop to it - it caters to locals, tourists and the coach trip brigade who are doing the Grand Circle Tour and is quite fun.

Kanab, Utah

Calvin T's, Kanab, Utah

 

Calvin T's, Kanab, Utah

There was a musician playing some country & western, a few couples dancing and a nice, mellow atmosphere but don't really know where the locals go - think a lot must go on behind closed doors. Did hear some fascinating facts though - 1) No-one is allowed into the bar under 21, drinking or not; 2) You can only order one unit of alcohol at the bar, if you want to order for two people and are sat at a table, the barmaid has to carry it for you, so definitely no doubles; 3) Also very enlightening to hear that if you are a stripper and under 21 you can go to the bar, strut your stuff and as long as you don't drink, all's fine. Well, despite all this we're having a good time and decide to order another drink - not allowed - they are only allowed to serve three unit of alcohol per person per hour - we had, of course, overdone that. Also learned that everywhere else closes at 9.00 p.m. but Calvin T's stays open till 10.00, the latest in town. Never mind, a nice night but, unfortunately, we met 'the monsoon' on the way home - a hot night and the thunder and lightening had been banging on but then it started pouring and we were literally soaked to the skin once again. We were going to get some food but went straight home, cooked a corned beef hash, listened to some tunes and had a cosy night in.
Friday 31 August
Fort Kanab was built in 1864 on the east bank of the Kanab Creek for defense against American Indians and as a base for exploration. Indian attacks forced its abondonment in 1866 but a group of Mormon missionaries occupied it and founded the present town in 1870. The scenery surrounding the little town of Kanab is pretty impressive although I think we are beginning to look at it as the norm now. However both feeling a little jaded after a night out on 'Utah's tiles' so cooked a hearty breakfast and went for a walk through town - not much here at all - there's a thrift shop, a little supermarket, a bank, a garage, some cafes and tea shops, a few gift shops and a couple of restaurants, also a 'Little Hollywood' Museum - all very quaint though nestling amongst the red sandstone hills. It's Labour Day on Monday (the last bank holiday of the summer) so whether it will get busier or not I don't know - we were in the beautiful city of Duluth, on the shores of Lake Superior in Michigan for Labour Day last year - how quickly a year goes. Back for a couple of hours by the pool before going out mid-afternoon to visit the Visitor's Centre and Little Hollywood Museum. Boiling hot again and temperatures are still up in the mid to high 90's. A lot of films are made in the local area and in Kanab and Little Hollywood is a collection of old film sets from films such as Outlaw Josey Wales, Gunsmoke, Ocean's 11 and some of the old TV favourites such as Laramie and Maverick.

Little Hollywood, Kanab, Utah

Visitor's Centre, Kanab, Utah

Little Hollywood, Kanab, Utah

Little Hollywood, Kanab, Utah

Wandered back looking in the few gift shops and the trading post as Dave wanted to buy a silver ring, he is unable to wear his wedding ring as it has got tight on his finger so thought it would be a nice memento of our 'journey together' to get a crafted Indian ring. He bought a beautiful one made by the Suzi tribe - really pleased. Picked up a pizza on the way home which was totally awful, had a long chat to Mia on skype - can't quite believe I'll be seeing her again in 8 days' time and had a quiet night reading. Think we might stay another day.

Saturday 1 September
I always think September is a bit sad, the long days of summer over, nights getting darker and the same applies here however hot it is during the day. Had a bit of a lie-in and finished my book before getting up and booking another night. Dave went for a walk and came back with delicious doughnuts for breakfast, wish he'd brought more. We were going to drive out to the Pink Coral Sand Dunes National Park but feeling lazy so decided to go for a swim instead. Lazed around most of the day, very hot so suited just fine. Went out late afternoon to the bar for a few beers before going to the free rock concert we had seen advertised around the town. It started at 7.00 p.m. so we got there about 7.30 expecting it to last at least a few hours. Lovely little spot under a red sandstone butte and a nice little crowd there although no alcohol on sight at all. It was a covers band but playing some nice James Taylor, Deep Purple, Bruce Springsteen until the singer said ' well thank you all for coming, this is our last number - Freebird'. Great song, great rendition but it was only 8.00 p.m. - that's Utah for you!

The Terrace, Kanab, Utah

We've been in a lot of 'small town America', most places have been great with soul and a sense of community although rarely have I felt I could live there - when you have to travel 50/60/70/80 miles plus in one direction or 50/60/70/80 miles plus in another to get anywhere, I find it quite unappealing but the whole Utah/Mormon thing is another ball game altogether. People here look very 'normal' but what do they do - either a lot goes on behind closed doors or life really is boring. I know I'm being totally unfair and very small-minded actually - I'm sure life can exist without alcohol, but I really don't get it and wonder why people stay. Got some take-out, sat out in the very warm night and watched an amazing electric storm far off in the distance. Moving on tomorrow.

Sunday 2 September
Tidied up and did a few lots of laundry before heading off mid-morning. Opposite the campsite on the other side of the road there were two churches, both of a fair size and there must have been several hundred cars in the car park by the time we left. Church really is big in America and every Sunday carparks are full. Only going north for about 80 miles to Bryce Canyon but thought we might stop somewhere along the way as there were a few little towns but nothing which took our fancy. Scenery, as always, wonderful but looking forward to turning onto Highway 12 which is supposeed to be one of  'the scenic drives' in the whole country. Unfortunately we won't be doing it all as it would take us back almost to Colorado. Once we were on the highway we passed through the utterley beautiful rocks of Red Canyon and did debate about whether to stay or not but decided to come back to it on the way out of Bryce. The weather was beautiful and the rocks were stark against the deep blue skies.

Red Rocks, Utah

We were both a bit surprised to see how commercial the road going into the National Park is with a Bryce Village full of rock/fossil shops, tourist stuff, restaurants and a few campsites and motels. Also a deluge of places hiring out quads - would so love to do that - they are legal on the roads here and are allowed into the Utah parks on designated roads - huge fun when we hired one in Mexico and would love to do it again but we haven't found out anything about it so we probably won't bother. This is a bank holiday weekend and we knew we would never get into the campgound in the Park so checked at Ruby's just outside but at 50 dollars a night we didn't bother. It's more of a little resort which is not what we're looking for so in the end pulled into Bryce Canyon Pines Campground just off the main road in a little pine forest.

Bryce Canyon Pines Campground, Bryce Village, Utah

 Its nice and feels like real camping. Also nice to watch and hear the children playing - RV parks proper can be a bit sterile after a while so its nice to be somewhere with some tents. Sat in the sun, barbecued some steaks and had a lovely quiet night.

Monday 3 September
Neither of us, for some reason, slept well and it got very cold in the night. Think Dave got up about 4.30 a.m. and I slept then until about 8.00 a.m. However, woke to a sparkling blue day and decided that we would park up outside the Park and get one of the free shuttle buses in. They have four stopping off/viewing sites so we thought we'd do that and do the 3 mile rim walk.

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Bryce Canyon is named after Mormon settler Ebenezer Bryce and was given national park status in 1924. It is not actually a canyon at all but a 20 mile shelf on the eastern side of the Paunsaugunt Plateau (named after the Pauni who were the first native settlers) 8,000 ft. above sea level. Successive strata of dazzling colour rocks - red, yellow, orange, purple - have slipped and washed away to reveal a collection (in their thousands) of multi-coloured and contorted stone pinnacles. The formations have been eroded through weather and winds (the temperature drops below freezing on 200 days of the year) and the top heavy pinnacles become known as hoodoos which are formed when the harder upper layer or rock stays firm and the lower levels wear away beneath them.

We got off the shuttle at Bryce Point in the heart of the Park and looked down into the ampitheatre which takes in the Bryce Canyon formations as well as giving you a sweep of the whole region (as far as 100 miles away). The skies were crystal clear, the views were majestic but the ampitheatre itself simply takes your breath away - beautiful beyond words.

Bryce Point, Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Had a wonderful walk along the rim taking in Sunrise and Sunset Point and watched a huge painted vulture glide around on the thermals soaring and swooping amongst the hoodoos, it was as if he was performing especially for us. Caught the shuttle back to the Visitor Centre late afternoon and watched a film about the canyon, checked if there was any room left in the campground, there was so we went and got the van and pulled into the North Rim site - beautifully quiet and peaceful. Sat out in the late afternoon sun with a cold beer before walking up to the rim for a last view before it got dark. Cooked dinner and had a dark, silent, peaceful night.

Tuesday 4 September
Much warmer night although woke up to a few grey clouds. Set off about 9.00ish only a few miles to the Red Canyon Park in the Dixie National Forest which we had passed through on the way to Bryce and promised ourselves we'd come back to.

Dixie National Forest, Utah

The Red Canyon's most striking feature is yet again its variety of weirdly shaped hoodoos - the area has been called 'the most photographed place in Utah'. Stunning as always and the contrast between the brilliant red soil and the bright green cottonwoods and pines is wonderful. Took the Hoodoo Trail which climbed between the hoodoos for about 3 miles ending up along a huge dried up riverbed - brilliant.

Red Rocks, Utah

Hoodoos at Red Rocks, Utah

Red Rocks, Utah

Dried-up riverbed, Red Rocks, Utah

Then we set off towards Zion National Park about 60 miles away. A hot day and as we climbed down to a lower altitude the temperature had risen into the 90's again. Couldn't believe the drive to get to the Park. All the roads here are scenic byways (or so it seems) but this was something else again. The drive approaches the main entrance to Zion where the looming Watchman and the West Temple (so named by early Mormon settlers) appear, the cliffs of Navajo sandstone soar half a mile above the cottonwood forests that line the Virgin River. In the 1860s an enthusiastic pioneer called Isaac Behunin is said to have christened the area by proclaiming 'this is my Zion' (the biblical reference names the hill in Jerusalem where the Temple was built ). The road heads on to a steep stretch of road, completed in 1930, that zigzags around and tunnels through the canyon by way of the historic Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. For vehicles over a certain length and height you have to have an escort through and you can only drive down the middle of the tunnel - it was quite an experience and quite unlike any other tunnel we have ever been through. Beyond the Tunnel lie petrified sand dunes which look quite surreal - like gigantic blobs of melted wax. Never have we felt so up close and personal with mountains and again we were left dumbstruck.

Zion Canyon National Park, Utah

Pulled into the Visitor Centre to get some information but decided to stay in the little gateway town of Springdale (pop. 600, elev. 3,912 ft.) because we needed some internet. Pulled into the Quality Inn Motel and RV Park huddled under the red sandstone cliffs with the lovely Virgin River running through it but at a cost of 48 dollars per night, pretty pricey.

Quality Inn Motel & RV Park, Springdale, Utah

Quality In RV Ground. Springdale, Utah

Utah has been expensive and we have seen fuel over 4.00 dollars a gallon here which is the highest prices we've seen since California. Logistics are quite difficult here though because of the terrain so I guess that might have something to do with it. Boiling hot so went to the pool for a while before having a walk around Springdale. Nice little tourist town, very un-American actually and certainly very un-Utahish - in fact it resembled a well-heeled European spa town somewhere in the mountains. There is a saloon in town (or I should say a bar attached to a restaurant) but you could only order one drink before food although they did offer crisps and dips as an alternative. Fortunately we did want to eat and the food was delicious, a steak for Dave and buffalo meatloaf for me. Such a glorious warm night so wandered back, sat out in the last of the light before having a shower, a read and bed.

Wednesday 5 September
Boiling hot night and woke to a boiling hot morning. Pulled out of the Quality Inn and went to the campsite in the park, absolutely perfect spot right next to the river, we even had a lovely sandy beach. Wish we'd come here days ago but, unfortunately, they only have one night free.

Camping by the river, Zion Canyon National Park, Utah

Free shuttle buses run in the Park again which is such a good system. The bus has nine stops  and we did the whole loop before stopping off just to gawp at the sheer majesty of the surroundings or to walk a couple of the trails including a 2 mile hike which winds up to the Emerald Pool - except in the summer there is not much of a pool to speak of - wonderful walk though. Stopped off at The Court of the Patriarchs and saw the mountains named Abraham, Jacob and Isaac, The Great White Throne and Angel's Landing  named by early Mormons perhaps reflecting their faith.


Zion Canyon , Utah

Zion Canyon National Park, Utah

Abraham, Issac and Jacob - The Court of the Patriarchs, Zion Canyon National Park, Utah

 

Zion Canyon National Park, Utah

The temperatures reached 100 degrees today but we walked miles and loved every minute of it. This is the most dramatic National Park I have ever been in and I'm so sorry that we have to be in Las Vegas in a few days or I would wait it out for a space to become available - I'm lost for words, run out of superlatives, beauty beyond description.

Under the waterfall at The Emerald Pool, Zion Canyon National Park, Utah

You can walk out of the Park into the little town of Springdale so we decided to sit in the cool of a little cinema and watch Ice Age III after having a paddle and cool down on our little beach. Really, really, really don't want to leave here. The film was fun although the 3D glasses were a bit rubbish. Came back, made a sandwich and had a quiet night. Nevada tomorrow. Goodbye Utah, it's been more than memorable.