Monday 10 September
Kids came over about 10.00 a.m. and went just across the road to Walmart and bought some supplies. Hot, hot morning but don't think its supposed to last as we go north. Tom and Mia happy though and so good to all be together. Drove the 180 miles to Williams, scenery lovely and great to be sat in the back chatting to Mia. Weather gradually got greyer and colder as forecast and feel bad for the kids, just want it to be perfect for them - don't know if we'll ever do this again. Arrived in Williams (pop. 3,026, elev. 7,310 ft.) and pulled into the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park where we had stayed before and is only a few minutes walk from downtown. Went out early evening and had a walk through Main Street which is cute and a relic of the 50's as it is part of the iconic old Route 66.
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| Tom and Mia, Williams, Arizona |
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| Williams, Arizona |
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| Dave, Tom and Mia, The Sultana Bar, Williams, Arizona |
Went to the Sultana Bar, a typical American saloon, where we enjoyed beer and some shots before heading to the Steak House for food. Tom and Mia treated us which was nice, then Dave wandered on back as his foot was hurting (worried about gout) and he was tired and I went back to The Sultana Bar with Tom and Mia. Didn't really want a lot to drink but had a fun time and left the bar at 2.30 a.m. to my amazement. Walked back through the quiet streets and spotted a striped skunk which we saw really closely. We were all thrilled but Tom was ecstatic as he is a real nature buff. Went to bed a bit later but Tom and Mia carried on chatting and ended up staying up all night sitting around the campfire - they crashed out about 6.30 a.m. just as Dave got up. Lovely day though, just worried about the weather.
Tuesday 11 September
Remembering 9/11 today. Mia stayed in bed and we left Williams mid-morning. Heading north 50 miles to The Grand Canyon. It's a grey, miserable, cold day. Dave and I stopped off at the Visitor Centre and watched the Grand Canyon film at the IMAX (Tom and Mia didn't want to see it before they had seen the real thing so they had a little rest). It was good and made me excited about seeing it again although it was expensive at 12.50 dollars for a 40 minute film. Entered the Grand Canyon National Park and pulled into Trailer Village and set up camp.
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| The Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona |
Went to have a first look at the canyon and couldn't believe what we saw or, to be exact, didn't see - simply covered in a thick, grey cloud, we couldn't see a thing. OK for us as we've got another chance to see it tomorrow but devastating if it's your only opportunity. Tom, Mia and I later had a walk to the Grand Canyon Village but got drenched so came back. Far too wet to eat outside so Dave cooked food under the canopy and we ate around the table before playing Scrabble and cards. Thankfully we're all exhausted so an early night in order. Hope for some sunshine and warmth tomorrow.
Wednesday 12 September
Woke up quite early, about 7.00ish, and Dave, Tom and Mia already up and had been watching a family of elk feeding in the campground. Dave and Tom then headed off for a walk so all good there - Tom is a bit of a nature freak so if he's able to nature spot then he'll be happy.
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| Trailer Village, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona |
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| Trailer Village, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona |
Bright morning but it still looks a bit watery. Went back to bed for a bit then we all went out mid-morning for our first glimpse of the canyon. It might not be the brightest sky but it is still a spine-chillingly, totally awesome sight - you simply can't stop looking at it. To quote Lonely Planet ' No statistics can prepare for such vastness. At more than 1 mile deep, it's an inconceivable abyss; varying between 4 and 18 miles wide it's an endless expanse of bewildering shapes and colours, glaring desert brightness and impenetrable shadow, stark promontories and soaring sandstone pinnacles.' You really do have to see it to believe it.
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| The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
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| Mia, Me and Tom, The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
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| The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
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| Tom and Mia, The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
We had our first view of the Canyon from the Mather Overlook and then wandered the first few miles of the South Rim Trail stopping every few yards, it seemed, to take photos and simply look at the wonder. Tom was entranced with the birds and seemed to have his eyes glued to his binoculars most of the time. His dearest wish was to see a Californian Condor, America's largest land bird with a wing span of 9-12 feet. They are now extremely rare but have been brought back from extinction by a successful breeding programme. Well to everyone's absolute joy we saw this huge bird flying around sweeping and soaring into the canyon. We watched her perform for us for about 20 minutes and were so close we could even see the 'no. 16' clipped on her wing. We found out she was a 9 year old female born on 9 May 2003 - totally, gobsmackingly brilliant and so, so lucky. The day cleared and it got warmer. We visited the Yavapui Geology Museum to read and learn about the geology of the canyon - layer upon layer of different rocks, distinguished by colour, recede down into the Canyon and the strata at the riverbed are amongst the oldest exposed rocks on earth.
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| Tom and Mia at Trailer Village, The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
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| Dave and I, The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
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| Tom and Dave, Trailer Village, The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
Finally arrived at The Lodge where we had a few beers, talked about the sights and our meeting with the condor. Late afternoon we got the bus back to the Market Place, bought a few goodies and walked back to the campground. Unfortunately, and unusually, no firepits so unable to have a campfire which is a shame as it was cold but Tom barbecued some chicken and we sat around talking for a while, exclaimed at the brightness of the stars in the night sky and went to bed.
Thursday 13 September
Cold night but woke to sparkling blue skies. Tom went for an early morning walk and Mia and I sat in the lovely warming sunshine. We've only been out of the heat a couple of days but sorely miss it when its not there. Made a few sandwiches and caught the shuttle to Hermit's Rest at the furthest point of the Rim Trail. Walked the remainder of the trail, about 6 miles, constantly oohing and aahing about the colours and the views, all the better today against the vivid blue of the sky.
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| Mia, Dave and Tom, The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
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| 'Help', The Grand Canyon, Arizona |
We arrived back at The Lodge about 6.00 p.m. Elk and caribou all around which is always enchanting. Had a couple of beers whilst watching the sun go down over the Canyon and caught the shuttle bus back. All tired and getting cold so barbecued some burgers, had a chat, looked at the always-amazing stars, watched a huge elk stag walk right past us and had an early night.
Friday 14 September
All up early ready to make an early start back to the Lake Mead National Recreation Area about 30 miles outside of Las Vegas. Gorgeous day although a bit chilly up here. Passed through the Kaibab National Forest and, yet again, the glorious yellow marigolds provided a carpet of colour along the way. Decided to do a bit of Route 66 and stopped at delightful Seligman, a quaint little one-street town making the most of its position on the iconic road. It was clearly a stop-off point for tourist coaches and the little town was bustling. Stopped for a coffee and good to see the old relics lining the street - cars, 50's memorabilia, music trivia, petrol pumps, diners and much more.
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| Mia, Seligman, Arizona |
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| Seligman, Arizona |
Carried on through the Hulalapai Reservation which consists mainly of desert and scrub but also the neat little town of Peachy Spring. Eventually crossed the bridge over the Hoover Dam to Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Settled in and went straight to the lake as the weather was simply boiling. A little disappointing after Lake Powell. The surroundings are beautiful with blue water, exotic palm trees and the ever-present multi-coloured mountains but the lakeshore was stony and muddy as was the bottom of the lake.
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| Lake Mead, Arizona |
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| Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Arizona |
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| Tom and Mia, Lake Mead, Arizona |
However, the water was gorgeous and we sat in the sun for a while before heading back and deciding to walk to the marina for food and beer - huge mistake. We were told it was a good mile but it was at least a good two miles if not more partly over scrubland - Mia was terrified of a meeting with a rattlesnake or scorpion and Dave's foot was still not healed properly. Finally got there and it was a lovely area - it was actually the Las Vegas Harbour - sat out in the lovely night air for shrimp and beer before contemplating the walk back (no taxis here).
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| Tom, Mia and Dave, Las Vegas Harbour, Lake Mead, Arizona |
Well, if getting there was a fiasco, getting back was a disaster. Pitch black, no moon and a pinprick of a torchlight didn't help us at all. After much trial and error, shouting and screaming we finally arrived back at the van with not a snakebite between us - not a pleasant experience and not one to be repeated. Tom and Mia sat up drinking and talking, Dave and I went to bed.
Saturday 15 September
Quiet, lazy, hot day. Tom went walkabout for ages, Dave lazed around reading and Mia and I went to the lake. Found a much nicer spot with a sandy bottom and enjoyed a few hours soaking up the sun, swimming, reading and just being together. Tom came down a bit later and then we all headed back for some shade. We did intend walking to the marina to buy some postcards and have a beer but just too lazy so Mia and I had a late afternoon swim before a delicious barbecue and a nice peaceful night. The week's running out too fast - Las Vegas tomorrow.
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